Ep. 36: Wool: How it can help mentally and physically Ankit Podcast

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Ep. 36: Wool: How it can help mentally and physically

In this episode of The WTiN Podcast, we talk to Julie Davies, general manager for Processing Innovation and Education Extension at The Woolmark Company.

Jessica Owen
Hello. My name is Jessica Owen, and I am the Deputy digital editor at WTIN, and this is the WTIN podcast. You cast, 2020. Has been a challenging year for everyone so far. Therefore, for this series, I'll be exploring the innovative ways in which companies are using Textiles and Apparel to improve our health and well being. This week, I am joined by Julie Davies, who is the general manager for processing innovation and education extension at The Woolmark Company, Julie talks about how wool can improve sleep, how it is bio resistant and used in face masks, and how wool products are comforting, nurturing and make you feel good you

Well, good morning, Julie, and welcome to the show. And thank you very much for joining me today. Actually, I should probably say good evening, Julie, because you're based in Sydney. So I mean, how is everything there? At the moment,

Julie Davies
it is strange speaking on the other side of the world, but it is great. It's now 6pm for me, and yeah, go going, well, we're coming out of our winter, which is always nice. So a nice feeling to suddenly get into spring.

Jessica Owen
Well, it's funny, you call it winter, I imagine it's not really a winter, not like the British winters. That's true. 

Julie Davies
We're a bit wussy here in Sydney in particular, we we have a very mild winter, so we can hardly call it winter. 

Jessica Owen
So yeah, even though it's all relative, isn't it certainly is. Yeah, yeah, okay, well today, then we're going to be talking about wool, and we're actually going to be looking at sort of how it can help our health and well being. But before we get on to that. Do you mind, just for those who haven't really come across the Walmart company before, would you mind just sort of explaining what you do exactly, giving a bit of background?

Julie Davies
Yeah, Australian wool innovation is a not for profit organization, and we're funded by Australia's 60,000 wool growers. And what we're there to do is research, develop and promote Australia more globally. So we have 2r and D teams. One's focusing on farms, so they work with closely with the and the growers to support their R and D, and also and I take care of the off farm R and D, which is working through the supply chain from early stage processes, manufacturers, designers and brands right through to end product. The other part of our organization is large marketing department. So for those who don't know, Awa is actually owner of the Walmart company, and that's what we're known as internationally. We have 13 offices, you know, extended through Europe, all through and all through Asia, from China, India, Vietnam, Taiwan. So we have a really extensive team, and we, we also in my part of the business. I should just give my background on myself. I'm actually a general manager for process innovation and education extension. So both of those departments are hugely important to firstly, in the process innovation area is to work with those supply chain partners to innovate with wool in product form, but also look at new processes for wool. The other part of the business I look after is the education extension, and that's really to educate the entire supply chain on wall. But we start with that education, those programs with school students to tertiary students, supply chain partners, right through to retailers and brands and consumer so it's quite a extensive portfolio, but it's but it's all relevant, you know? And one leads to the other, and it's quite an exciting role.

Jessica Owen
Yeah, it sounds it. I mean, I think does you also have an education center? Does that link into that? 

Julie Davies
I've been in textile industry for 30 plus years, and developing and doing product development for commercial commercial operation with wool, and looking after the sales and marketing team and I, and during those days, in particular, I became acutely aware that there wasn't a lot of in depth knowledge in the industry, in with designers and brands about specific to wool. I think you know. A tertiary level students get a very high level introduction to all fibers. So when I joined the Wal Mart company with one of my main aims and a very much focus of the company itself, that the need to really educate students at a tertiary level before they enter the workplace, so that they're fully equipped with the knowledge about wool as they enter their careers. So this we launched in December, the Walmart Learning Center, and that is, you know, tertiary level courses about the supply chain from early stage processing. It first starts with the wool fiber, about what that fiber is, and the physics and chemistry about the fiber. And then we move into the processing so scouring, spinning, knitting and weaving, and we're just about to launch knitwear design modules and we've designed modules. And what I hope is that this, these courses actually cover tertiary education for designers, text, fashion and textile designers, but also textile you know, textile engineers, those at the hub of working so it's their design courses by leading industry experts. So it's, it's, it's amazing knowledge. It's there for for anyone to participate with the courses. Can you know credit with Credly badges? It's in the free to for anyone who wants to participate in those courses.

Jessica Owen
Well, do you mind giving me a quick lesson? Then about wool? Sure, because, I mean, I think people are starting to realize, like you say, that there's probably more to it than just being a fiber that can be made into a wooly jumper, for example. And so what does make it such a great fiber, and how many sort of different applications does it have these days? Well,

Julie Davies
it's, it's quite amazing. It is quite an amazing fiber. You know, firstly, a wool is a keratin protein fiber, so it's not really very different from your own hair, which is nature's choice for all mammals, and we've all evolved with some wooly layer in, you know, to keep us warm and protective from the elements. So wool, wool is that. And, you know, we have to remember too, wool has been round for centuries and centuries. You know, it's not a new fiber, and it's an amazing gift from nature. And they're a huge benefits that, you know, we even keep learning more every day about the benefits of the natural fiber. And you find with a lot of synthetic fibers, and I'm not rubbishing synthetic fibers, they have the place to, you know, in this in this world, but you know, a lot of synthetic fibers are trying to emulate what wool does naturally. And I think that really says it all about wool. It's a very, very diverse fiber these days.

Jessica Owen
Well, I mean, clearly it has a lot to offer then, and today, we're going to sort of focus primarily on what it can do for our health and wellness. So I guess the first thing we should maybe mention is how it's currently helping the fight against COVID 19. I think I understand that many brands are now using merino wool specifically, sort of in face masks. Would you mind just sort of telling me about what you know on this? I mean, is it being used for its effectiveness at filtering out the virus, or is it more to do with that sort of comfort element?

Julie Davies
Well, it's an interesting area. Obviously, this is a just a hideous pandemic and the COVID virus, and look, we, we've been doing a lot of work in this area for quite some years anyway, with with looking at the benefits of wool in that health and wellness area, you know, we're working with manufacturers on applied treatments with antiviral and antibacterial treatments. We're at testing phases with them, but, but really, it's, it's way too early to make any extensive claims, but it is an area we're focusing on, you know, and the fight against COVID is a massive challenge globally. And you know, everyone's looking for a cure, but wool is not the cure, but wool as a face mask. Obviously, there's, you know, a lot of comfort with wearing the wool, but also the companies producing wool masks, you know, are doing a huge variety. You know, they're doing single knit, double knit, or they can be just knitted or woven or laminated. You know, there's so many different types of masks that companies are producing in will, which is exciting and. But, you know, one huge benefit is that, you know, wool is breathable. It's also biodegradable. So as an alternative to a single use, synthetic mask, Will, Will is great in that, in that, in that space, it's also, you know, you can frequently wash them so it's they have, it's a more sustainable way to go with wearing, you know, wearing a mask, wearing a wool mask. But, yeah, a lot of companies are in this space, and a lot of testing is being done, but it's very early days to make any significant claim around the health, health benefit of it.

Jessica Owen
Okay? And I mean, like, you said there, like, there's so many sort of different things that companies are doing. I mean, I've seen some now where, well, they just look like ordinary face masks. But then I've seen also, I think you'd call it a snit, where it's sort of a scarf that you can pull up over your nose. And I even saw one design, actually, by, I think it's a motorcycle company that have somehow made it into, again, sort of a scarf type device that you can wear whilst you're on the bike. And it's just a lot of things you can do with it. And it's, it's almost quite fashionable as well. It's a lot nicer to look at, or where, like one of those melt blown sort of surgical masks, definitely, yeah,

Julie Davies
definitely. And there are companies being very, very creative. So whether they do, you know, apply a digital print on it, and you'll see there's lots of different prints or colors or knit structures or weave structures, different shaping, you know, it's, you know, some of them are becoming quite a, you know, fashion item too, in a funny sort of way. But yeah, you're right, lots of industries, whether it be cycling or, you know, ski, I've seen, I've seen scum masks, you know, instead of just the old balaclava, they've got built in, you know, more more reinforcement around the face. So, yeah, it's an interesting area, and good to work with trade partners to innovate in this area as well.

Jessica Owen
Now, sort of moving on, one thing I really wanted to talk about was walls sort of place in helping people to sleep better. I think at the moment especially, it's incredibly important to get sleep because it helps boost your immunity. It optimizes your memory, I think, and your cognitive function, and I've also read that it can help improve anxiety and so on. So are you able to sort of explain how wool is able to help here?

Julie Davies
Yeah, absolutely. It's, I mean, some of I might have touched on before, but you know the natural benefits and properties of wool, so it's natural, it's biodegradable, odor resistant, and also, also has is a temperature regulator. So where wool is used in, maybe in that sports outdoor market, so where it might be a rock climber, and they're exerting energy as they move up that rock face. And they're hot, their body's hot, and the garment absorbs the moisture and the vapor away from the skin. And then, when, then, as you know, they might reach the top of the cliff and it's windy, and where a traditional garment may in another fiber would get a very strong cooling effect straight away. Wool doesn't do that. So it regulates your temperature, and it keeps it's it's comfortable, and, you know, absorbs moisture and and it keeps your your body regulated. So the same in sleep. So you're sleeping in the night and you're wearing wool, and you may, may during the night, her be, you know, get hotter and colder, it keeps you more stable and rested during sleep. So there's a lot of wool bedding around. Obviously, you can get wool doing donors that are breathable, comfortable wool underlays, but there's also a lot in studies with wearing wool when you sleep. So we've been involved with quite a lot of studies. We did one recently with 36 students at Sydney University, and we found them all to fall asleep much faster if they were wearing a super fine wool sleepwear as a compared to a cotton or a polyester for for instance, you know, the adults age 65 or over, benefited the most, and they were falling asleep maybe 12 minutes faster in wool than compared to 22 minutes in polyester or 27 in cotton. So it's, we do, do extensive work in this area, and it is showing great, great benefits and rest, you know, for good solid sleep and restfulness. And, yeah,

Jessica Owen
yeah, it's very interesting. I mean, I think I did a. Did a bit of background research before we came on air today, but I think I saw that study as well. And I think you also mentioned that you'd there was some research that showed that newborns, as well sleeping and wool on delays, they spent about 8% less time making minor movements and less time making sort of major movements as well. So it's interesting that it has an effect on all ages as well.

Julie Davies
Yeah, absolutely, it's, yeah, one of those, yeah, incredible fire. And you have to look again to where wool is used, especially with infants. You know, with it wasn't that many, you know, it was probably a generation ago, where, I know, you know my my mother or grandmother, you know, were always knitted wool products for the babies. You know we had, you know, beautiful, soft wool. And then there's a generation where we moved away from it, and suddenly, you know cotton, and that's probably, you know, kids around 30 now, and below where they grew up, wearing cottons in synthetics, and wool was deemed, you know, a bit old fashioned because it was always hand knits. So we lost that generation of the true understanding of the benefits of wool and and growing up with wool, and it's really part of, you know, Walmart company now you know our aim is to re educate, especially that generation and and more about about these absolute unique benefits to wool that aren't new. They've been around for a long time. It's just, you know, reigniting and getting that interest from manufacturers as well to explore and innovate with wool. And, you know, transferring that knowledge through to designers, brands and and the consumer, you know, for their real understanding about the benefits for all ages, in in wearing wool and you and using wool in many elements of their lives. So it's, you know, it's, it's a very diverse fiber.

Jessica Owen
And, I mean, I don't suppose in well, because you're not a retailer, I don't know whether you sort of experience the demand that's going on, but I mean, at the moment, with COVID, and there's a lot of stress going around, and I'm sure a lot of people are lacking sleep at the moment, do you reckon that there is sort of an increase in demand for products that can help you sleep better and, and whether wool is maybe among that,

Julie Davies
yeah, look, we're we're working with some brands exactly in that space. We're also educating consumer about wool and those properties and, and also wool as a, you know, sustainable fiber as well, and and I think post COVID, I know a lot of my colleagues, and we talk about this quite a lot of you know, when we've been away from our offices and we're working at home, we may be home alone. What becomes important and what garments you want to be wearing, for comfort, for lifestyle, what, what garments actually make you feel good? And you know, will, will play is an important place in in those markets. And we, we're even, you know, whether you're walking around the block or whether you're cycling, whether you're doing yoga, whether you you want to snuggle up on your lounge and watch a movie, you know, if or you know, and then go to bed and have a good night's sleep. You know, there's wool products in all of those categories, and there's something about that. It's almost a nurturing feeling, you know, a feel good. And it's that whole health and wellness. So it's not just physical health, health, but mental health as well. And I'm not real, I'm not underplaying that the power of wool in that space, you know, there's something about whether you know, wearing that product, you're on your lounge. A lot of females, you know, maybe many males too, have taken up hand knitting again, and just that, that sheer pleasure, and it's almost an indulgence, but it's not a out of reach indulgence, you know, to have a wool product and nurture a wool product. And I think there's a lot to be said with that, even taking, you know, your favorite sweater and caring about how you're going to wash that or care for it in your wardrobe, there's, there's, it's a more meaningful garment, and I think for our health and wellness as individuals, that is, is a very powerful, powerful element in in a product. And hoping a lot more people you know do start to realize that and appreciate that. You know, as time goes on, but I think certainly this with COVID hitting us globally, it's certainly a time for individuals to reflect on what's important to them in many areas of their lives. Definitely,

Jessica Owen
I agree there, and it's funny you say that about the way that wool can almost have. Sort of maybe a sentimental or a nurturing aspect to it. I mean, I know certainly that I used to always steal this wall jumper out of my grandpa's closet, and it got to the point where he actually went back to the shop and bought the exact same one and gave it to me because he wanted his own jumper back. And I still have it to this day. And yeah, I don't think I'll ever get rid of it, and, well, not unless I happen to shrink it dramatically, whatever reason. But

Julie Davies
yeah, no, that's a fabulous story. That's yeah, that's that's really lovely. And that's yeah, that's truly what these, you know, garments can mean to people, you know, and the association too, that's very powerful. Now,

Jessica Owen
I also wanted to sort of talk about this maybe preconception that people have with wool, because I think a lot of people, especially maybe, I've spoken to friends about it as well, that when they think of wool, they think of maybe a heavy, scratchy, itchy jumper. But actually it seems to, I think again, when I was looking on your website, it's, it's allergen free, and it can even be good for people with eczema. So, I mean, how is one able to do that? I mean, how come, if it's able to help people with eczema, it's got such a, maybe a bad press about it being itchy and so on. Yeah,

Julie Davies
I think, you know, the way was being processed these days, and there's, there's so many different walls around and and I always say there's, there's not a bad wall. There's always a wall for different purposes. So you can get lower micron walls, you know, 17.5 where they're really, really soft against the skin and the they're incredible, incredible to wear. And as you go up with the higher the micron, the coarser that wool is. But there's wool fit for every purpose. So where you may have worn a jumper that maybe was it what so called Itchy and Scratchy next to your skin, that's not the product to wear next to your skin, and there's more lower micron products that you wear next to skin, but that, that sweater can be used as a mid layer or or even outer layer that, you know, there's beautiful, rustic jackets and but, but the the difference, I suppose, with the merino wool is It is a super fine it is incredibly soft next to your skin, and the manufacturers nowadays just doing so much more with wool and the way it's treated and spun into super, super fine wools, and the way it's knitted And and woven into different textiles. You know, there's, it's just come a long way, rather than that, just that one traditional wool. So it's a very sophisticated industry, actually, and really, you know, for a consumer, you don't have to look too far these days, fortunately, to find wool that is fantastically comfortable to wear. Throw it in the machine, you know, machine washable. Throw it in the dryer. It's not as difficult as traditionally, wool probably was, you know, 60 years ago. It's a lot more versatile. So I think it's that again, that re education, that wool is not wool, is not wool as traditionally known. But you're right about, you know, we've, we've done a lot of studies with the with eczema, and it's found have amazing results. As you said, it's allergen free. And we've done, you know, we've got a lot of research, and we can always show people you know, give people those papers on that research, okay?

Jessica Owen
And I think I also read that it has the ability to improve air quality. And is that true? And if so, how's that possible?

Julie Davies
That's possible because wool absorbs Otis. So for instance, with with carpets, so it absorbs and traps those Otis, so it takes away those compounds from the air that we don't want. It's like a filtration, but it's and the same as a garment, if you're sweating in a garment, if it was in synthetic, excuse me, synthetic, and it releases those Otis. Wool traps those Otis so that air quality around is much cleaner, okay?

Jessica Owen
And the next thing, well, I feel like I'm sort of just running through a list here of everything it can do and just getting you to explain it. But another story that I read recently that I thought was really interesting was I think it was a study undertaken by ag research, and they basically found that wool and wool rich fabrics, when used in base layers, can sort of help protect the military and firefighters and so on. And so it's interesting that it's not only good for maybe comfort and looking after your skin, but actually it could potentially save someone's life, or at least sort of protect their skin that bit that bit better.

Julie Davies
Yeah, absolutely. This is a really important area for us, actually. And as we go into this next phase, we've been doing this for many years anyway, but we're really putting a strategy of how we better communicate wool being used in that work where health and safety area and definitely military firefighters can be, you know, racing car drivers as their protective base layer. So so we, we're going to be doing a lot of work in this space to really highlight this, but, you know, will, as I said, as one of the natural benefits, you know, apart from from the odor, it's doesn't Ignite, so it's naturally resistant to Burning, so a wool will smolder but not not ignite. So you have where, if there were, if someone's wearing a synthetic garment, and it it catches on fire that that fiber melts to the skin, on your skin, whereas wool won't do that. So it has, it has amazing properties in that area. Also, again, that temperature as a temperature regulator, and that comfort is so huge scientific benefits as well as a comfort benefit as well in those spaces,

Jessica Owen
right? Well, considering everything that we've talked about today and all these sort of different things that will can do for us, whether it's to look after our skin or actually even protect our protect our lives as maybe a military personnel, do you reckon that wool is gaining much more interest, and I mean all the education that you're doing in the Walmart company. Do you reckon that wool will once again be this sort of go to fiber and have a much stronger place in this world of synthetics and so on?

Julie Davies
Yeah, I truly do. You know, we've, we've been working away for, for many years. You know, wool used in that sports outdoor market. Now, I think it's become, which is a great thing. It's become a well known fiber in that outdoor market and an appreciated fiber. So as we trend, as we have a trend, from sports outdoor into fashion, it's that sort of fusion where you're wearing lifestyle garments. So, but I think more and more brands are looking for an edge in their brand. So traditionally, a fashion brand may just do fashion wear. Now they're doing more lifestyle product or active wear ranges, so there's that beautiful flow on and then that exposure to consumers. So we have a lot of product, as we said, you know, the base layer, the mid layer, the outer layer, lots of fantastic accessories in wool. Footwear is a hugely important area for us and globally. And you'll see, you know, many brands now wanting to do footwear in wool, and not just a knitted upper, but we do cut and sew and woven shoe uppers and gain the benefits of wearing a wool shoe for comfort as well as odor management or moisture management and wicking. But I think, you know, we're going to see, the consumer is going to see a lot more products available to them. And you know, I get, you know, it's, it's every week. Someone will say to me, Oh my gosh. I don't, you know, it's probably more than every week, but oh my gosh, I didn't all could do that. Oh my gosh. That doesn't look like wool. Or, you know, we're doing in fashion, you know, wool corduroys, wool velvets, faux fur. So, you know, wool fake fur, you know, backpacks, headliners, in helmets. You know, commuter wear, yoga wear, which is amazing products we're doing in wool and the wool yoga mats. And I think they're just a few things. You know, golf where cycling, you can really go on. And a lot of these areas touch so many people in the community. And I think that's, that's where people will realize the diversity and and that they can get almost anything in wool. And, you know, I think it's, I think it's an exciting time for wool. I'm continually energized in this space, continually amazed. You know, the the investment that manufacturers put into developing and innovating in wool and the brands and designers and we see more and more designers also wanting to a. Offer quality products and with amazing benefits. And, you know, there's, there's so many more things that can be offered with wool too, you know, natural fiber, you they can be dyed with natural dyes instead of strong chemicals, natural natural print bases. So, yeah, I see it as a really, you know, big growth area for us. And, yeah, and I think it's exciting.

Jessica Owen
Well, I mean, like you said, you've just listed so many different areas in which wool can be used. And, I mean, this podcast today is sort of looking at the health of humans and our well being. But actually, because it's biodegradable, it's a natural product and so on. It's actually so much better for the planet as well. And at this time, when you think of the plastics crisis, or just climate change in general, I mean, it's it can just sort of, it covers all bases with sort of what we're trying to do and how we want to look after the planet as well,

Julie Davies
absolutely, you know, it really is, you know, I think people, I got a little certainly not offender. But I think people use the word sustainable far too easily, you know. And I think when you look at wool, that it is grown on air and water, you know, on this beautiful animal, the wool growers, the sheep of their livelihood, the care and passion that our wool growers have for their sheep and for the care of the land. You know that that can't be underestimated. And a lot of these wool growers and these businesses, they're family run businesses. They're not big conglomerates. They, you know, they're they're families with generations behind them, caring for the sheep, caring for the well being of the sheep, shearing the wool, the wool sent, it's processed, and we found far more sustainable processing happening these days. Innovation in, you know, whole garment knitting, so reduced waste, as I said before, natural dyes and chemicals. So there's so many places along that supply chain where it's a more sustainable process. And I think that's, you know, it's as consumers on this planet, we have to be looking at that. And instead of the the waste that goes on. Mean, you yourself, you know, you said about your grandfather sweater, you know, that's, that's prime, you know that, and that's, that's wonderful, I mean, and, and then the wool garment is biodegradable. It goes back to the earth, you know, it's, it's all those properties can't be underestimated, really, with the way our globe, our world is, is going at the moment,

Jessica Owen
and, well, I've only really got time for a couple more questions, but one I wanted to ask. I mean, you've already mentioned about the different sort of applications of wool, but is there anything that you're doing in your research and development department that you're really interested in right now, and something that's exciting you in particular.

Julie Davies
Yeah, I think definitely in the in processing, in those more sustainable processes, so waterless dine and then actual dyes. I think that's really clever. You know? I think there's some amazing scope there on the garment side. I just think I'm loving that, that whole movement into health and wellness, you know, we've, we're doing a lot of work also in commuter wear connect collections, you know. So even you know, people going to and from work and different wool products that are more more suitable for their their lifestyle, from getting to the work and working a day in the office and going home, not just, you know, I think formal where still has an absolute place, you know, suiting and and I would hate to think everything will anyone would think that will disappear Because I have young sons myself, and I find it's amazing. They're even very proud to own, you know, wool suit and but I think where we want to go in development is get more wool in every aspect of people's lives, so that casual dressing, those casual suit jackets, those knitted jackets, pants, that, that sort of trendy casual wear. That's, to me, that's an exciting area. And we're, we're focusing on that a lot. And, you know, for male and female, I think that's an exciting area for us, in a growth area,

Jessica Owen
okay, sounds it? Okay? Well, I mean, Julie, I think we're coming to an end now. But finally, I mean, is there anything in particular that maybe you do to look after your own health and well being, maybe especially at the moment, considering everything the world is sort of experiencing? Well,

Julie Davies
I have to say, I'm not the, you know, I'm one of these. But I'm very healthy, and I take care of myself. I need to do a lot more, as we all say, you know, I've got to make more time. You today, to do more active sports. But I do absolutely love healthy lifestyle. I love, you know, a lot of walking. I love fresh air. I have a garden, and I just find that so soothing to be out in the garden, in nature. But what I do do is, is I've always given a lot of thought to my diet and to try and keep away from processed food. And I eat a lot of what I call clean foods and prepare, you know, from from raw materials. And I think there is a trend and that I really believe that we many think about what we put in our bodies, and it's time that everyone starts to take care of what they put on their bodies, and what I was talking about before, about that whole feeling of what it means if you're wearing wool and and and Being mindful about about that. I think that's really powerful. And I just think, you know, it's nature's gift to us, and I don't think we should take it for granted. I really, I really believe that. 

Jessica Owen
Well, Julie, I mean, it's been lovely to have this opportunity to talk with you, and it's been really interesting to hear about all these other ways in which wool can be used I wasn't actually aware of before. So yes, thank you very much again for your time today and to enjoy the rest of your evening. 

Julie Davies
Oh, thanks so much. Jess, it's been a pleasure talking to you.