Ep.99: Innovation for a circular economy

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Ep.99: Innovation for a circular economy

The Textile Innovation Podcast speaks to Meredith Boyd of US-based textile solutions provider Unifi about its hero product Repreve and initiatives to create a sustainable value chain in textiles.

WTiN: Hi, Meredith. It's great to have you on the podcast. Pleased to begin, could you tell our listeners about your background and your role within Unifi? I can see you've been with the company since 2007. And what has what have been some highlights for you?

Boyd: Well, hello, Abigail, pleased to be here with you today, and certainly happy to share. My name is Meredith Boyd. And I'm the Chief Product Officer at Unifi, I actually joined the company in 2007, which was a really exciting time because we were pivoting from being a major commodity synthetics producer into introducing the world to repre, which is our platform for recycled products. And when I joined the company, I actually started in manufacturing as a chemist in the quality lab at a site that we were operating in eastern North Carolina. And I had the opportunity to then move into other roles within the company into working with specialty polymers, including as we were commercialising reprieve, I got to work on the backward integration into the technology that actually allowed us to develop our intellectual property around producing very high quality recycled resins for textile products. I also worked in product development, and I that was on everything new, I worked in business development, which was heavily focused on building up our capability to produce outside of our America's production. And also to enter into new markets. I spent a short time in our brand sales division. And that's where I worked with brand and retail customers directly. We have found that particularly with our recycled platform of reprieve, and are other functional product technologies, that it's incredibly important to have that tie to the brand customer so that we can really communicate on the value attributes of the product and how it can be a key solution for that brand and their consumers. And then I now am responsible for a number of areas, including innovation, which also has product development, and research and development, all of our technical operations. So that is product and process development plant technology. I'm responsible for all of our business development efforts, entering new markets, new applications, and developing new capability, and also the marketing and communications to support all of the products and solutions that we deliver globally.

WTiN: Could you give me a bit more information about what Unifi does like what the organisation does, and a little bit more about that leading product reproof, which you just mentioned.

Boyd: So Unifi is a global textile solutions provider. And we are one of the world's largest and leading innovators in manufacturing, synthetic and recycled performance fibres and also resins. Now, we're Prevx is our product line that is made by unified and it's the world's leading brand of recycled performance fibre. And we've already transformed more than 40 billion plastic bottles into recycled fibre and that goes into new clothing, shoes, Home Goods, other types of products. And we also have a key differentiator with Repreve. And that's where you trust product verification, and that is empowered by fibre print tracer technology. What you trust product verification allows us to do is certify the transparency and traceability that when a customer is specifying reprieve, it's actually there and in the article and we do that by analysing our proprietary fibre print technology. So we're Priebus really uniquely positioned to ensure that we can empower brands and be that champions support to deliver on sustainable products to their consumers. The way that we're pre is made is actually a fairly straightforward four step process we bring in waste materials. bottle is a key material so so post consumer plastic bottles, but we also work with post industrial waste and textile waste as well. Those materials have to be cleaned, refined and contaminants removed before they enter our proprietary reprieve recycling process. That's where those materials actually get melted down. So they see heat they turn into this molten lava like goo and that's where we're able to carefully control the physical properties of that molten goo filter to remove additional contaminants and then produce what's called resin resin looks like little tiny balls of plastic. Those the resin is then use in the next step of the process for making Repreve textile yarns. We melt the resin again go through a few more special proprietary steps and then we extrude individual filaments, which can then be textured, roughed up crimped, we can affect the hand the softness, or the abrasion resistance of the product and take that up on a bobbin. And that is how reprieve yarn is made.

WTiN: And how did you play a pivotal role in Repreve’s growth?

Boyd: Well, when I joined the company in 2007, it was right around when we were launching Repreve commercially. So it really was an exciting time as I got to see how what it takes, as you scale a recycled technology in a market where virgin polyester had really been the only option that had been provided for a product that was of a quality that could really replace virgin materials. And that was our goal with repre was really we had to look at how could we produce a recycled product that did not have any performance or quality compromise so that it could replace as much virgin as possible. And we feel really proud to have been successful with that endeavour. Having a technical background, I was very much in the heart of the development efforts, everything from looking at how we could ensure that we could run the product over enormous quantities, not in small batches, making sure that we had the right colour and the right physical properties to meet the really critical demands of textile yarns. Additionally, I was closely involved as we developed and ultimately implemented the equipment to run every step of the reprieve recycling process in house that started with the proprietary reprieve recycling technology. And later, we backward integrated into our own bottle processing facility in Reidsville, North Carolina as well. Beyond that, I have been very fortunate to work with a great team as we've expanded on the Repreve product offerings. That has included our textile takeback programme, which is where we're working with textile waste. Specifically, I've been able to work on the other reprieve performance technologies, including our Sorb tech moisture management technology, our waterwise technology where we add pigments into the melt, and many others. So it is really a continuous innovation process that I've been fortunate to be a part of since joining in 2007.

WTiN: That's great. And obviously, we see the benefits as reprieve has been used by major brands including H&M and Nike. But as companies turn to recycling to create fibres, how will this affect the product's performance?

Boyd: Well, polyester is the largest fibre into textile applications. So that means it's an incredible area of impact. And the majority of the world's global polyester is actually still virgin. So there is such an opportunity to continue to convert those who are still using virgin over to reprieve and not require any compromise in performance or in quality. So we do see that as a great indication that there will be continued growth expansion for the scope of reprieve. It's important, in particular that we have Repreve available in all key geographies, and that the scope of yarn variants and those functional technologies is also available.

WTiN: And given upcoming legislation surrounding recycling and decisions that were made at COP 28. How do you think this will change the future of recycling landscape?

Boyd: Well, I think it's exciting to see just the tremendous support for increasing the usage of materials that help to decrease the negative impacts on this planet, and for the people who inhabit it. But it is important to know that only certain companies at present are really in that position to deliver on the large scale volume that's needed for this industry. So that's an area that we feel that we are delivering very timely solutions. It's available globally. And it's available in the vast quantities and number of variants that this textile industry requires. It is really exciting to see nascent recycling technologies that are entering the space. And I do believe that working collaboratively at all points in the value chain is really going to be key to ensure that articles are designed for recyclability by brands that processes are developed to ensure that pre and post consumer waste is getting into a chain where it can be recycled into a second life for that product. And ultimately, it's critical that these waste materials then enter a recycling process where they can be produced with the scope and scale that is really required by the enormous global textile industry. In late 2022. We actually announced our own expansion of our textile take back programme to our production in Asia. And that is again our platform for those textile waste materials and ensuring that we can help to find a second life and reprieve for these materials that have either ended up in scrap on cutting room floors, and even working towards post consumer articles as well.

WTiN: That’s great, and you kind of touched on it, then this collaborative effort, which we're seeing so much more of. And because of this push towards recycling sustainability, how do you think the Textile and Fashion Industry will adapt and change as they move forward?

Boyd: Well, looking back, I really think that we're pre entering the industry with this virgin analogous product was really a catalyst to start a lot of those conversations about the infrastructures, key partnerships, the recycling technologies, that do give that engine for fashion and other textile applications to have a sustainable future. And it is key for us to continue to lead that charge in regards to making sure that we can overhaul that the take make waste model and find solutions that deliver on a truly circular principle. So we communicate this, we talk with our brand partners, our fabric formation partners, the consumer, just about all of these opportunities that go far beyond the way that people think waste materials are dealt with today. And again, with that textile take back programme that we've introduced, and that has been in an expansion and growth mode, we also see that really as being a key step in the future. And again, it will take infrastructure development, but the fact that we can deliver on solutions today, to incorporate waste textile materials, putting those back into a second life with reprieve, we're getting a lot of great conversation underway with key folks throughout the entire value chain and in the industry, just to have that dialogue about what it will take to really scale programmes like textile take back on an even bigger scale. And we know that it will be key in the future to look at how the consumer can also be more involved, and taking responsibility for what happens to garments, what happens to other textile articles at end of life when they can't be reused or given given to another person or organisation. And working closely with brands and designers on that design for recyclability will make it that much easier for the whole process and also for the consumer to really understand why it's important to think about where that article goes instead of just into a waistband.

WTiN: That's really interesting, kind of going off that and as you have introduced Repreve and spoken to your partners in the industry. What do you believe some of the biggest challenges have been facing the fashion industry in particular in terms of implementing these various tools and recycled materials?

Boyd: Certainly, function performance aesthetic are all key characteristics whenever particularly fashion items are being designed. And I do think a lot of it goes back to that designing for recyclability. That is such a key conversation at present, and it will be in the future. But it wasn't necessarily in the past. And so really working with all key stakeholders to really deliver on those components and materials that can still give that amazing design aesthetic function, while being compatible with key recycling processes, like the textile take back programme is both a challenge and an opportunity. So that is an area that I think we're going to see a lot more active engagement at all points of the value chain. And I think that the attention just on recycling in general helps reinforce its importance. And the fact that this is a very viable pathway that is being developed for goods. So keeping the recycling education very high, making sure that customers and consumers are aware of opportunities for textile materials to enter second life through a programme like textile takeback is another key area, there are still many misconceptions that can exist about recycled materials and what happens to them and ensuring that there's transparency about the opportunities we can bring is a key part of our mission. I think that increasing attention on textile to textile recycling processes is a priority it needs to be a priority. And that will require a lot of investment in infrastructure sortation collection, the way to deal with materials that have many different compositions, the way to move materials most efficiently. So I think this will be another area of challenge but it will it is already turning into opportunity. And trust. Transparency and traceability are also top priorities. Those are often factors that could inhibit a brand being willing to take on a new material it is arch ORed with reprieved that we present a very clear and easy to understand pillar structure when we talk about trust, transparency, and the traceability of the products. So that is again another opportunity we back that up with that you trust certification process and then the complimentary fibre print tracer technology so that we're brands are choosing to honour the product by calling out repre they can feel confident in the information that backs that up.

WTiN: And apart from reprieve What else has Unifi achieved that you're particularly proud of?

Boyd: Well, I think our product technology launches are always something to be excited about. In January, we launched a new product, it's called REIT comfort. And Ray Comfort is a filament yarn that is engineered to act and feel like a traditional spun yarn. So that could be something like a spun cotton, a spun acrylic, a spun rayon, and yet it's made with reprieve. And so that's presenting a material that's going to have a lower environmental impact. But it's also going to bring some of the benefits of synthetic materials like engineered for the way it interacts with moisture, but keeping that incredibly soft and iconic hand that we all associate with beautiful spun yarns. We also recently launched a new anti odour technology called AMI zinc oxide. And that allows us to bring a solution that not only keeps those textile fabrics fresher, but it also offers an opportunity to even wash less in the consumer use phase, which saves more water and energy that's associated with that phase of life for the textile. I've shared a bit about our textile take back programme, I certainly can say stay tuned on that one. There will be more to come as we see that as such a growth trajectory area. And our development pipeline is full of technologies that we are vetting to look at how can we maximise functional performance, while ensuring that these technologies are offering the lowest environmental impact and decreasing that reliance on Virgin petrochemical derivatives? So there's certainly more that we'll also look forward to sharing in the near term.

WTiN: And how do you ensure that all these new technologies are sustainable?

Boyd: A big piece of that is that we do look at lifecycle analyses on the product. So this is when we're actually measuring the inputs and the outputs of creating a kilo of a textile product. We do this by adhering to a an ISO standard. There's actually two standards ISO 14040 and ISO 14044. And we've also had our data from our 2023 study, which is our most recent release, third party reviewed. So we want to be sure that when we make our claims that these products are going to present a lower environmental impact than a virgin product producing the same geography that that is in fact defensible. The types of output from a lifecycle study include that we were able to quantify that greenhouse gas emissions by up to 42% were decrease relative to Virgin filament yarn and up to 60%. When staple fibre was compared, we also look at values like fossil fuel depletion, which we saw as up to 66% reduced versus virgin filament yarn from the same geography and up to 76% when compared to Virgin staple fibre. And of course, water scarcity is a key issue for many parts of this world. And for the textile industry, we were able to quantify up to 76% reduction in water scarcity with the I'm sorry, and freshwater consumption of up to 67%. And those were both on filament yarn. So that is an important area of study to make sure that claims are defensible. And that is another complementary facet of the Repreve value proposition.

WTiN: Right, some fantastic statistics. And apart from Repreve, what have been some of your most popular products, and who were they used by?

Boyd: Yeah, well Unifi being that global textile solutions provider. We have a very proud and broad reach when it comes to all of the customers with whom we can connect and that goes across clothing, accessories, Home Goods, automotive, home, and also contract textiles. And we actually just last week announced our latest annual group of our champions of sustainability. And that was our seventh annual and that really highlights some of the key collaborative companies that have been part of the reprieve journey for quite some time. It included Nike raw fees Under Armour Lovesac and started Simmons bedding. And those join key players that are in what we term are billion bottle club meaning that they have us the equivalent of reprieve that equates to more than a billion bottles recycled. And that also includes Walmart, Target Polartec, and Tex Hong and Nike.

WTiN: And you've already touched upon this about what's in the pipeline for Unifi. But could you tell me what is the vision moving forward?

Boyd: Well, I would certainly say to continue to stay tuned on our advancements as it relates to textile, textile recycling, as part of that reprieve, textile take back programme, we know that this is an area that is needed. And we are working very hard to deliver on new solutions in that space. And additionally, we continue to stand very strong on goals that we've put out there. We just recently announced some new goals in our sustainability report that came out just a couple of months ago. And we do remain on on our goal track for recycling. Or I'm sorry, to ensure that we're previous 50% of our revenue by 2025. We also are working along toward our 50 billion Bottle Recycling milestone, and that's also by 2025. But we introduced another goal that's really exciting because it is tied into leveraging other types of waste. And that was the announcement of our intention to recycle 1.5 billion t shirt equivalents worth of textile and yarn waste by fiscal our fiscal 2030 As part of our textile take back programme, so I find it very exciting as we start to branch into new goals to challenge ourselves to challenge industry collaborators to make sure that we are making great use of all types of polyester waste.

WTiN: Very excited to see what's going to come from that. Thank you so much, Meredith, for speaking to me today on the WTiN podcast.

Boyd: Thank you so much. Abigail was such a pleasure to spend his time with you.